Archives for September 2021

Today I started just before sunrise. The sky was so amazingly orange. I have been so fortunate this year with the weather. Each day I have started out in just my shirtsleeves not jacket nor jumper needed. Todays walk is really interesting because it is really two long stages. The first is about 10 km to Viana and the second is about the same distance to Logroño. Although it is short it seems longer just because of less rest on each leg. That being said I arrived in Logroño at about 11:45 am this morning. I have chores to do and need a hot shower and then I am off to see the town. Logroño is the capital of La Rioja which is a geographical region as well as a wine region. Just before the town you leave the region of Navarra and enter La Rioja. The grape harvest is in full swing. It is fun to see.

Tomorrow is the longest day yet. Logroño to Nájera. I love Nájera because I volunteered in the municipal there in April of 2016.

Today was my first long day. The normal stage is to walk from Estella to Los Arcos, but I like to stay at the municipal albergue in Ayegui, which is about 2 km past Estella. I first stayed there in 2013 and it is not fancy but run by the town. Yesterday I mentioned that the hospitalero’s brother in law had just brought a big basket of mushrooms when I arrived. Well I had lunch in the albergue and as a gift to me he brought me a huge plate of mushrooms and scrambled eggs. Normally I would have balked but I ate every bite and they were delicious.

Torres del Rio is about 28 km from Ayegui. It is a walk that I have made each time. 20 km to Los Arcos is too short so I go forward. I am still walking about 5 km per hour including stops so if I don’t walk a little extra I have too much time in each town.

I stayed at the albergue San Andrés in Torres del Rio. It was hopping but the town is dying. The little store that used to be there is closed and so are most of the restaurants. It was fun to meet all of the pilgrims thought so I enjoyed my day. Tomorrow is a short walk to Logroño.

This morning as I left the albergue the sun as not even peaking over the horizon. You could see the beautiful glow in the sky but nothing more. I like to stay in Ayegi which is about 2 km past Estella. I stay at the same place every time San Chipriano albergue which is the municipal in this town. The first year I stayed here there were beds in the basement and It was basically a sports court that allowed pilgrims by 2019 they had remodeled it with beds upstairs and an elevator. Fancy, but it is still run by the local council and it feels homey. Today the Hospitaleros brother in law stopped by with a huge basket of mushrooms that he had foraged. I don’t really like mushrooms but if I did I’ll bet they would have been delish.

It is so strange to hear the phone ringing constantly with pilgrims looking for a bed. I am not sure the Hospitaleros love it either. Times are different on the Camino and in Spain. Most people wear masks inside and out. Unless you are exercising, walking the camino or something else you are wearing a mask. It’s not a big deal but you must do it as it is not optional either.