Archives for September 2021

Today was simply a beautiful day. The sun was shining and the temperature was warm. I started for Orisson at about 7 am. The walk was everything that I remember it being, but I am in much better shape and carrying substantially less weight, not my backpack of course it is as heavy as always but on my body. I made it by 9:30 most of my friends were going forward to Roncesvalles but, I had reservations for Orisson. I could not figure out what the heck I was going to do for the rest of the day, so I made the decision to go forward to Roncesvalles and chance that I would get a bed. Of course that complicated things a bit as I had reservations for the next several days that needed to be changed. I contacted the albergue in Zubiri that I had a reservation in and asked to change it to tomorrow. Maria the Hospitalera told me that she was completo for tomorrow but then offered to find me a bed. That was really over and above, my first Camino angel experience of this walk, I was so grateful. Within 10 minutes she sent me a WhatsApp with my bed at albergue Avellano. I had stayed there before so that was great. I was able to change my other reservations as well. The camino is very full. Zubiri is completo for tomorrow so I was very lucky.

The walk from Orisson to Roncesvalles was hard and Long but not as bad as in years before. The last time I walked all the way was my first Camino and I found it very diffficult.

Roncesvalles is full of pilgrims, they say that they are only filling half the beds but all of the beds on my floor were full.

Tonight I went to Mass, received a pilgrims blessing and said a few prayers of my own. I especially asked God’s blessing and healing hands for my sister-in-law Sarah who is in the hospital right now.

I arrived about 4:15 today by bus from Pamplona. It was an easy ride in a full bus. As we drive past Roncesvalles I was amazed at just how many pilgrims there were mulling around. From what I can see so far the Camino is full. Fortunately, I have reservation fro the next 5 days through Puente La Reina.

Today I am staying at Beilari which is technically a Gite but we call it an albergue. It is almost directly across from the pilgrims office. There are two beds available which is surprising. I think I will be the only English speaker. The balance of the guests are French. My roommate has just today finished the Le Puy route actually walking all the way to Roncesvalles today. He speaks a little English fortunately. He loved the Le puy.

St Jean Pied-pied-du-port is also full. I have met one other American but I do not hear much English being spoken. Mostly French and Spanish which is great with me.

September 23 2021

I arrived in Pamplona yesterday afternoon.  Unfortunately, I arrived too late to take the bus. At this time of the year there is only one bus which leaves Pamplona at 2:30 pm and arrives in St Jean Pied du Port at 4:15 pm.  

That actually gave me a good chance to walk around the city and get reacquainted. I walked over the Jesus y Maria albergue and made a reservation for my return on Monday the 27th. Interestingly, the albergue was completo so that tells me that the camino is still crowded but I have to take into account that they are only allowed 50% occupancy.  I now have reservations for the first 6 days of my Camino.  I will figure out as I go along if I need more.  

I was able to stay awake until almost 9 pm last night which is a victory considering I only had a few hours sleep for the prior few days.  I slept until 6 am and feel great today.  A few café con leches does not hurt the cause.  

I am still amazed at how many people smoke in Spain, and yet the life expectancy here is the second highest in the world.  I guess all of the walking must help.  People young and old are out walking everywhere.  It is so great.

This morning I went for a walk along the Camino.  I was late at around 9 am so there were few pilgrims.  I will assume that they were all out on the trail since you need to be out of the albergue by 8 am.  

I’m off the walk around and then catch the bus.