Travel

Today we started in Asturias and some time mid day walked into Galicia.  I guess it would be like walking from California into another state.  Things feel different in Galicia, the camino is treated differently, the paths are better maintained and even the way markers are different.  In Asturias the shell is the way marker but the bottoms of the shell points the direction you are to go.  In Galicia the front of the shell with it’s many facets point the way.

The walk today was difficult as there are many mountains to climb, but the hardest part was the half of a mile trek straight up at the very end to reach A Fonsgrada.  A Fonsgrada is the highest town in Galicia.  We spent a great deal of time above the clouds and at one time were even at the base of the windmills on the ridge at the top of the mountain.  This is a camino for mountain climbers.  

Pulpo is the local specialty of this region. Pulpo is octopus that is boiled and served covered with olive oil and papricka.  It is not my cup of tea but many love it.  That being said it is always fun to have a meal with camino friends just to get to know them better.

Berdecedo to Grandes de Salime. 20 km 12 miles.  May 24, 2022

Well, today was supposed to be an easy day.  Only 20 km which I should walk in about 4 hours.  In reality it was 5 and a half hours.  

Last night I stayed in Albergue Camino Primitivo in Berdecedo.  I could not be happier. The hospitaleros, Natalia and Alberto were very nice and friendly. The albergue as new and clean, and had washing machines and dryers.  They served a menú del día that was delicious and at only 14 euros it is a great deal as far as I was concerned.  You’ll be shocked but I made friends with the hospitaleros and had a great time.  I helped the pilgrims decifer the menu and made it easier on them in the dining room.  It was really fun.  

Today the walk was basically up in the morning and then brutally down for about 3 hours in a steep decent to the dam of the embalse Grandas de Salime. Embalse is a man made lake.  From there it was an up hill climb for 7 km.  I must be getting used to the climbing because both in the morning and the afternoon I was able to just power forward slowly but consistently.  I spanish guy callled me a mule.  Which was a compliment as he was saying that I just powered up and down the hills. 

The balls of my feet are sore today from the downhills, many will tell you that the down hills are easier but it is common knowledge that going down hill is actually harder on your body then uphill.  

The good news is that I am in Grandes de Salime and have had a fun day and a good lunch in a restaurant full of people that I knew or got to know and a 3 course meal was only 10 euros. 

Tomorrow I walk 26 km 

Although today was supposed to be a short day in distance it was a grueling day.  It started out by climbing to the top of the mountains.  A long and very steep climb.  Last night in the albergue they warned us to be very careful and to stick together as people get lost up on the mountain and the markings are not super great.  

We were lucky the weather was great on the way up you could see for ever.  The wind was blowing hard as we neared the top which made it a bit cold but other than that is was fine.  

The way down was treacherous the rocks on the path are good sized and there are many of them. It is like walking on a rocky riverbed.  This makes the walk down very difficult.  I normally walk 5 km per hour but today being careful not to break a leg or an arm.  I only fell once and fortunately it was on my ass and not forward.  The crazy steep rocky downhill makes for a very long afternoon.  To add into that it started raining about half way down and the wind was blowing the rain directly into my face.  Note to self ponchos suck and are totally useless. 

I finally made it to my albergue in Bercedos which is great.  A hot shower and the ability to wash and most importantly dry my clothes is awesome.  I am feeling great.  Tomorrow is a short day only 20 km but a huge downhill so we will see.