May 31, 2017
The walk today was only 26k but it seemed much longer.
The albergue in Miraz was great last night. Everything was new which was nice. As I said Miraz is in the mountains of Galicia, It’s like all of a sudden you go from walking on a beautiful tree lined road in the middle of nowhere to this little albergue with a restaurant/bar and thats it. In Spain a bar/restaurant is really all that you need to have a community. People come from all around just to have a beer or glass of wine and a tapa. Food is really inexpensive in most of Spain. We have eaten a three course meal for lunch, the largest meal of the day for Spaniards for between 8 and 11 Euros. That price includes a starter like a huge plate of pasta, salad with tuna and vegetables, embutidos which is a plate of cold meats, salami and cheese, Calamari, etc. Then a second plate of meat, or fish with potatoes and lastly desert. It also includes Wine, water and bread. You can eat like a king for pennies.
Today we continued through the mountains to a community built around a monastery called Sobranes dos Monxes. The monastery is run by an order of Trappist monks. Other than welcoming pilgrims they also make Dulce de leche. When we arrived the monks we just heading to lunch. We were allowed to put our packs in the keep but then needed to leave. The monk recommended a great restaurant about a kilometer away. We walked over again a restaurant in the middle of nowhere. The food was delicious, I had a starter of Calamari stew which was calamari, potatoes and spices. A local specialty, it was delicious.
After lunch we were able to check in to the monastery. When I sat down to register I called to monk Father, he said that his name was Lawrence and that they did not used titles. I listened to Lawrence speak fluent German, Italian, Spanish and English. He was really interesting. He actually had a conversation with each pilgrim in their own language. I love Europe for many reasons but that has got to be tops. So many people are poly lingual.
We sleep inside the keep of the monastery in what honestly were probably stables at one time. It was great because due to the stone walls it was cool. When you sleep with 14 or more of your closest friends the room can get a bit stuffy with all of those bodies.
We had a chance to go to Vespers tonight. It is the only time that you can go into the area where the monks live. We were allowed into their chapel to attend. It was beautiful. I cant really say that i remember attending vespers although I probably have. They lasted about an hour. After vespers we walked back to the restaurant for dinner. I just had a glass of wine, still full from lunch. I am becoming an expert at hand washing my clothes. A skill I can life without. It is nice when the weather is warm so the clothes dry on the line outside. Socks are the toughest to get dry. Tomorrow we will walk to Arúza. At that point the Norté joins the French route. We will walk two days on the French route into Santiago.