Vinsman

Today I started out in Bodenaya which is a little village in the mountains of Asturias.  I stayed at an albergue donativo (which means that there is not price for the stay it is what you choose to give).  It was a great experience.  Only 11 beds and only 8 full.  The Hospitalero made us a delicious dinner of pasta salad and hearty lentil stew.  She provided all of the beer, wine or anything else we might like to drink.  She also washed and dryer any clothes that we asked her to.  This morning she made us a traditional spanish breakfast of coffee, fruit and different breads.  All in all it was a really great experience. 

The walk today was not as difficult as yesterday but my body was very tired from the climb in the end yesterday it took me about 3 hours just to feel my groove.  The route today was about half climbing and a gentil but consistent rate and then the other down about the same.  The views were spectacular as I was walking along the ridge of the mountains with the verdant green valleys below.  Lots of cows and goats.  Austurias is know for it’s milk production.  

Tomorrow god willing it is up and over the top. 

Last night in the albergue there was the world championships of snoring. Crazy enough even though I snore I did not come anywhere close to the podium.  My walking friend Ramon is not crowned the world champion but others in the room certainly did their best to unseat him.  I have never herd so many different annoying sounds come out of one person.  Needless to say it was not a restful night.  That being said I was not deterred from my 30 km day.

Since shockingly I was up early was out on the Camino by 7:15 AM this morning.  The weather here has been perfect so far.  Overcast but temperate.  My friend warned me that 30 km on the Primitivo is not the same as other Camino’s.  Of course I said we will see.  Well he was correct.  The primitivo is up and down.  Today started up and up and up and then down then back up and then along the river.  The last town before the final stage is Salas.  From Salas I had 7.6 km which I had been warned was up hill.  It was literally all up hill until the very end.  I am staying in a donativo albergue in Bodenaya which is run by David and Celia.  There are 11 beds and everything is donativo.  Everyone has told me this is one of the best experiences on the Camino primitivo.  I can see why.  

Today I walked 19.7 miles. Over 40,000 steps

It was a good day.

My day started super early as jet lag is still not totally gone.  I woke up for the last time at 4 and just got out of bed.  Nothing wrong with being able to watch the sun come up.

The walk from Oviedo to Grado is about 26 km.  I walked today with my friend Ramon who has walked the primitivo many times.  The first several km are winding through town. Which could be tricky without a guide.  I have several apps that actually are very accurate at setting the path.  

Once out of town it was up into the hills and walking along farm roads.  It was not terribly difficult with some ups and downs. We had a reservation for lunch at Ramon’s favorite restaurant for Fabada so we slowed down a bit so that we did not arrive too early.  As it was we were about 90 minutes early but still were able to eat.  The Fabada was amazing.  Fabada is a bean stew with Morcilla (blood sausage) ham and chorizo.  Then for the second course they brought fried eggs, fried potatoes and ham.  I was very happy to have 6 km left to burn off all fo the food.

The last part of the day we walked along a river for about  5 km into Grado.  We are staying at a private albergue in Grado that Ramon wanted to stay at.  Honestly, it is not great I feel like a number and miss the municipal but that is for the next several night. 

Tomorrow I have 30 km to walk.  I am told it is a very hard day.  We will see.