Vinsman

Berdecedo to Grandes de Salime. 20 km 12 miles.  May 24, 2022

Well, today was supposed to be an easy day.  Only 20 km which I should walk in about 4 hours.  In reality it was 5 and a half hours.  

Last night I stayed in Albergue Camino Primitivo in Berdecedo.  I could not be happier. The hospitaleros, Natalia and Alberto were very nice and friendly. The albergue as new and clean, and had washing machines and dryers.  They served a menú del día that was delicious and at only 14 euros it is a great deal as far as I was concerned.  You’ll be shocked but I made friends with the hospitaleros and had a great time.  I helped the pilgrims decifer the menu and made it easier on them in the dining room.  It was really fun.  

Today the walk was basically up in the morning and then brutally down for about 3 hours in a steep decent to the dam of the embalse Grandas de Salime. Embalse is a man made lake.  From there it was an up hill climb for 7 km.  I must be getting used to the climbing because both in the morning and the afternoon I was able to just power forward slowly but consistently.  I spanish guy callled me a mule.  Which was a compliment as he was saying that I just powered up and down the hills. 

The balls of my feet are sore today from the downhills, many will tell you that the down hills are easier but it is common knowledge that going down hill is actually harder on your body then uphill.  

The good news is that I am in Grandes de Salime and have had a fun day and a good lunch in a restaurant full of people that I knew or got to know and a 3 course meal was only 10 euros. 

Tomorrow I walk 26 km 

Although today was supposed to be a short day in distance it was a grueling day.  It started out by climbing to the top of the mountains.  A long and very steep climb.  Last night in the albergue they warned us to be very careful and to stick together as people get lost up on the mountain and the markings are not super great.  

We were lucky the weather was great on the way up you could see for ever.  The wind was blowing hard as we neared the top which made it a bit cold but other than that is was fine.  

The way down was treacherous the rocks on the path are good sized and there are many of them. It is like walking on a rocky riverbed.  This makes the walk down very difficult.  I normally walk 5 km per hour but today being careful not to break a leg or an arm.  I only fell once and fortunately it was on my ass and not forward.  The crazy steep rocky downhill makes for a very long afternoon.  To add into that it started raining about half way down and the wind was blowing the rain directly into my face.  Note to self ponchos suck and are totally useless. 

I finally made it to my albergue in Bercedos which is great.  A hot shower and the ability to wash and most importantly dry my clothes is awesome.  I am feeling great.  Tomorrow is a short day only 20 km but a huge downhill so we will see.

Today I started out in Bodenaya which is a little village in the mountains of Asturias.  I stayed at an albergue donativo (which means that there is not price for the stay it is what you choose to give).  It was a great experience.  Only 11 beds and only 8 full.  The Hospitalero made us a delicious dinner of pasta salad and hearty lentil stew.  She provided all of the beer, wine or anything else we might like to drink.  She also washed and dryer any clothes that we asked her to.  This morning she made us a traditional spanish breakfast of coffee, fruit and different breads.  All in all it was a really great experience. 

The walk today was not as difficult as yesterday but my body was very tired from the climb in the end yesterday it took me about 3 hours just to feel my groove.  The route today was about half climbing and a gentil but consistent rate and then the other down about the same.  The views were spectacular as I was walking along the ridge of the mountains with the verdant green valleys below.  Lots of cows and goats.  Austurias is know for it’s milk production.  

Tomorrow god willing it is up and over the top.